Have you seen the Vanessa Pouzet Wanted tee/top pattern?
IMAGE [Vanessa Pouzet Site]
Well I really love the design and had to have it. The thing is, I don’t speak French and to be honest I didn’t want to buy a new pattern. The stripe fabric the model is wearing on Vanessa’s website was the wow moment for me; I really love how seamless the neckband was. The light began flicking in my head about Tilly and the button Agnes Tee, which in my opinion is as versatile as a bodice block once you find the perfect size. I decided to try my hand at hacking the Agnes neckline, in hopes of creating an inspired Wanted Tee. A few disclaimers are
- I am a self-taught sewist
- I may not have all the technical terms down
- Tutorials are my least favorite blog/video and I’m not perfect
Three version of the Agnes Hack
- Clean Lines: The first was a white textured knit with good recovery. Both the front and back are squared and corners of neckband are mitered
- The second is a Polyester Knit blend with a scoop back and mitered square front
- My final project is an abstract knit with amazing recovery, it has a square neckline and scoop back
I enjoyed this project, the learning experience was amazing. Mistakes are truly opportunities to become better. I hope this pictorial showcases a clear, step by step flow of the process I used to create the modified neckline.
- Agnes Front & Back pattern pieces
- Tracing Paper (for demonstration purpose poster board was used)
- Rotary Cutter (Standard & Mini) or Scissors
- Measuring Gauge or Tape
Let’s Create A Square Neckline
Make an exact copy of the Agnes pattern front and back, transfer all markings.
The next thing I did was draw a straight horizontal line from the CF/CB all the way across the pattern and a vertical line was drawn from shoulder to meet that line. Once I connected those line, I lowered the neckline 1 1/4″ at the CF/CB and 1 1/4″ at the shoulders. Then I squared off the new points.
To create the neckband, we must first create a neck facing. To do that I lowered the neckline 1 1/4″ once more and repeated the previous step. I cut the neckband template from the pattern.
Now the facing is created, I went ahead and made another copy of it with 3/8 inch seam allowance shown in the yellow poster board. A diagonal line from the inner square to the outer square is cut to create the CF band as well as the front side band.
This step is repeated for the back, if you are creating a square back . The most important step not to mess up is creating the template for the band. The white poster board is the final template and the one to use for your sewing project. The final template is cut on a fold, remember the shorter sides are your inner square and it forms the neckline.
If you prefer a scoop back neckline, while maintaining the square front you will need to measure the peak where the side front meets the CF edge all the way to your CB. Next week I’ll have the pictorial of How to Attach the neckband.
Always add seam allowance to retain the original pattern size whenever you create new seams.
For precision with the mitered corners, make sure your mark the 3/8 seam allowance on both the band and square front where the points should meet.
Check out my YouTube video : Agnes Square Neckline Hack | Inspired by The Wanted Top . In this video I kick my fears of making a DIY and share how I modified Tilly & The Buttons Agnes into a sexy square neckline.